Bench Grinder
The wide variety of wheels available for a bench grinder make it a versatile tool for grinding, cleaning, and polishing. Grinders typically come equipped with a tool rest, spark guard, and protective shield for each wheel and can be mounted on a workbench or a separate pedestal.
Using a Bench Grinder
Set the tool rest at the desired angle and so the rear edge is within 1/16 inch of the wheel. Adjust the spark shield so that it covers the work area without producing distracting reflections. Use both hands to hold a tool to be sharpened firmly against the rest, and slowly move the edge of the tool forward until it touches the wheel. Move the tool from side to side - sparks should fly evenly from the edge. When the tool feels warm to your hands, cool it in water, as overheating can ruin the cutting edge.
Bench Grinders come in many different sizes, as measured by the diameter of the largest wheel they can hold - typically from 5 to 10 inches. Grinder motors vary in capacity from 1/5 horsepower, for the smallest versions, to 1 horsepower or more. While most grinders spin at 3,450 revolutions per minute (rpm), some versions are geared to turn a grinding wheel in a water bath at speeds as low as 60 rpm. Though they grind slowly, these wheels cannot overheat tools being sharpened.
Electric Drill
With the correct bit or attachment clamped into its chuck - the receptacle that holds the bit - an electric drill can bore holes in nearly any material. The size of a drill is determined by the largest bit shank its chuck accepts. A electric drill may run at a single speed, at two or three set speeds, or at variable speeds. Power ratings vary from 2 to 6 amperes. The more powerful the drill, the slower it runs, but the greater its turning power, or torque.
Using an Electric Drill
Before you can use a drill, you must select a bit and fasten it inside the chuck. In some models, you have to do this manually with device called a chuck key. Insert the bit fully into the chuck, and turn the key clockwise in one of the three holes to ensure that each jaw makes contact with the bit. Other models come with a keyless chuck; after you insert the bit, grasp the chuck firmly with one hand and run the drill to fasten the bit in place.
Try to arrange the work so that you are drilling straight down or straight ahead. To keep the bit from wandering, make a pilot hole with a center punch, an awl, or a nail. Grip the drill with both hands and center the bit in the pilot hole. Bear down on the drill and begin drilling at slow speed (if the drill has a variable-speed motor); then speed it up after the bit has penetrated the surface. Push firmly, but don't force the drill to cut too fast.
Use sharp drill bits to make drilling easier, reduce the load on the motor, and lengthen the drill's life. Keep the drill's air ports clear to protect the motor from overheating.
The standard electric hand drill comes with a 1/4-, 3/8-, or 1/2-inch chuck. The high-speed, 1/4-inch model can bore only small holes. The 1/2-inch drill has power to bore large holes without overloading. The 3/8-inch drill can handle all but the heaviest jobs, making it the best choice for home repair. Choose a reversible model with variable speeds including reverse, which is useful for backing wood bits out of deep holes.
Reciprocating Saw (Sawzall)
A reciprocating saw is a heavy-duty power saw used mainly for rough cutting. It cuts aggressively through wood, plaster, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipe, metal, and other materials with a rapid, piston-like motion. It's ideal for jobs such as making openings in walls to install windows and doors, creating holes for electrical and plumbing work, cutting through cast-iron pipe and even cutting small-diameter firewood.
Using a Reciprocating Saw
Install a blade appropriate to the material and to the type of cut you want to make - rough or smooth, curved or straight. (Blades are purchased separately; their purpose is clearly identified on the packaging.) Set the tool at the slowest speeds when working with metal and the highest speeds for wood and other soft materials. Whenever possible, let gravity help you direct the cut. Do not force the tool - give the blade time to make the cut. Check the condition of the blade frequently. Replace blades that are dull or damaged.
To cut into a wall, hold the saw with the base plate against the wall and the blade parallel to the surface. Brace yourself, start the saw, and pivot the blade gradually into the wall.
While most saws have variable speeds from 0 to 2,400 strokes per minute (for cutting different materials), look for versions that offer variable speed ranges or speed controls that allow you to preset the maximum speed - or both. Check out these reciprocating saw from Toolprice that I'd found. These features make it easier to keep the tool running at the desired speed. For faster cuts, the most expensive models have an orbital (slight backward and forward) cutting action similar to that of a saber saw.
Palm Sander (Orbital Sander)
Orbital sanders, used to prepare a wood surface before applying a finish, work with an orbital motion. A soft pad, covered with an abrasive sheet, moves in quick, tight circles while the housing remains stationary.
Among the most popular models for general use is the palm orbital sander. This sander is designed to be used with one hand, and is small enough to fit almost anywhere. Its square pad accepts one quarter of a standard sheet of abrasive paper, usually secured with tiny clamps on the tool. Some models also accept adhesive-backed abrasive paper.
Using a Palm Orbital Sander
To minimize strain on the motor and for best control, start the sander before touching the abrasive to the work surface. When sanding, apply modest pressure and use overlapping strokes to move the sander slowly back and forth across the surface. Putting too much pressure on the tool can overload the motor. When you finish sanding, lift the sander away from the work, turn it off, and wait until it stops moving before you set it down. If you have to remove a lot of material, use another type of sander - for example, a belt sander - before using a palm orbital sander.
Models typically vary in motor amperage, and are sometimes categorized as heavy duty, industrial, or professional. When purchasing a sander, look for one that's comfortable in your hand; it should have an On-Off switch that you can reach easily. A sealed, dust-resistant switch is an advantageous feature. Some models have dust bags; many can be fitted with exhaust ports so they can be hooked up to a vacuum cleaner to neatly suck up the dust as you use the tool.
Author: Carl Robinson
Toolprice
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