Like any other cutting tool, the block plane does have one major shortcoming: It doesn't work when the blade is dull. That's why after we show you a few ways to use a block plane, we're going to show you a method for getting your plane blade razor-sharp, without spending on fancy sharpening stones.

Adjust the Blade for Fine Shavings
Always keep a sharp blade in the plane. A sharp blade will cut fine shavings. To allow for the fact that the blade gets shorter as it's repeatedly resharpened, most plane blades can be positioned in any number of slots. Pick the one that places the bevel of the blade close to the opening in the sole of the plane. Then reinstall the cap and snug it down onto the blade. Don't overtighten it or you won't be able to lower and raise the blade. Expose more blade to remove more material and less to take finer shavings.

Angle the Plane for Easier Cutting
Nestle the plane in your palm. Start each stroke with more force bearing down on the front of the plane through your index finger, and end each stroke with more force on the back of the plane through your palm. Hold the plane at an angle to the wood so the blade slices off thin, even shavings. Be aware of the grain direction and work with it whenever possible. To plane wavy lines or difficult-to-plane grain, increase the angle of the plane to 45 degrees or more.
Paint and other finishes rapidly dull plane blades. Use a carbide scraper to remove paint or finish before planing.
Keep your plane in a dry area and retract the blade when you're not using it. Resharpen the blade often to maintain the edge and you'll always be ready to trim a door, loosen a drawer, or unstick a window at a moment's notice.

Glass, Sandpaper and a Guide Make for Razor-Sharp Blades
For 25 years, I've been struggling with my trusty old oilstone to achieve the elusive razor-sharp edge. Now I've abandoned that method in favor of one that's better and faster. Here's what you need. Buy two 12-in. square pieces of 1/4-in. glass at the hardware store (about $10 for both) and ask to have the edges ground smooth for safety. Then buy an assortment of sandpaper. For really dull blades that need major grinding, buy 80- and 120-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. For fine sharpening, buy 220-, 320- and 600- grit silicon carbide (black) waterproof paper. Buy a couple of sheets of each grit. To get set up for sharpening, spray a light coating of spray adhesive (available at hardware stores and home centers) on the backside of a full sheet of sandpaper, let it dry a few seconds and stick it to the glass.

Buying Block Planes
Block planes range in price from about $12 for a basic plane to $150 or more for a collector quality plane. In the middle of this range is my favorite, I've found great selection jack plane from Toolprice at best deal around. Less-expensive planes have fewer adjusting mechanisms (you'll have to wiggle the blade by hand to position it), less accurate machining and lower-quality steel in the blade. But despite these shortcomings, they'll still do the job when fitted with a sharp blade. More-expensive planes usually have a means of adjusting the size of the opening (mouth) in the bottom (sole) of the plane to accommodate fine or thick shavings. It's a nice feature, but not necessary.
The bottom line: Buy a plane that feels good in your hand and fits your budget. Then keep the blade sharp.
Next, buy a honing guide to hold the blade at a constant angle as you roll it back and forth over progressively finer grits of paper. There's no skill or guesswork required. Simply mount the plane blade in the guide according to the instructions. The entire setup will cost you about $30 and will sharpen chisels as well as plane blades.

Author: Carl Robinson
Toolprice
http://www.toolprice.com